Wednesday, July 23, 2008

El Salvador and another sleepless night

Continued from

In the bus from the airport after the red-eye:

The house I stayed at two nights:

Checking the surf:

The surf:

Dinner at La Paz beach restaurant:

Day 2 in El Salvador. Got up at 4:30 am for the 5am van which didn't show up to 5:30. A bit disappointing considering how crowded it can get quickly at Punta Roca. It was good, glassy, overhead sets, but inconsistent with a lot of really good locals already on it. Stayed out from 6 - 9:30. One guy broke his board by smacking the lip too hard. It's the only board he brought. A local let him take out his board, which was more generous than we as Americans have come to expect.

I caught enough waves, but because they're all going "right", I felt like a kook. I can barely position myself to catch the tube and can't get up drop-knee to save my life. My goal by the end of the trip is to be able to drop in like I would going left.

Able to write from a place called La Paz with wireless. They're treating a boy who is sponsored through Compassion International to lunch and some surf time. I was too tired after this morning's long session to surf right now, but hope to hit it again this evening. Maybe I'll sleep better. I moved to the other house. The air conditioner has a nervous tick that ticks three times, like the sound of someone hitting a loud switch, every 10 minutes, loud enough to wake me up. I eventually moved into the guy's room and crept into a bottom bunk bed. I couldn't sleep well there because of the movement from above every so often but I got a little. Today I lugged all my junk to the other house. I'll be with the teenage girls, who are all sweet and cute and wear the latest surf fashions and one is so bubbly you don't know if you want to take her home and just let her entertain you with her happiness or show her all the reality of what life is really like down here. I hope some of her energy wears off on me. I've seen too much poverty to think of this place as beautiful, although it does have beauty, there's no middle class. One guy got his sandals stolen off the rocks yesterday. Lots of petty and not so petty crime. Our homes are heavily guarded. Yesterday we saw some policemen beating someone with their sticks, near the beach. So maybe they are cracking down a little harder these days.

In case you're curious the ocean water is about 80 degrees and the air probably in the 90s, it's somewhat humid but hot and humid doesn't bother me too much. There's usually a refreshing breeze in the afternoon. Cold and humid, now that's another story!



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